Rachel’s “Pig in a Bucket”

Rachel’s original design of the “Pig in a Bucket” is shown in the photo below, bottom centre. She wanted her pig to make sounds when you squeezed its nose. We have also added sensors to the ears!

Group photo, showing Rachel's "Pig in a Bucket" at the front.

Group photo, showing Rachel’s “Pig in a Bucket” at the front.

This is still a work in progress, and although much of the hardware has been constructed, the sensors for the nose and ears have yet to be built. Here is what we have so far.

There’s a hole in my bucket ..

We started with a plain galvanised 15l steel bucket, and then cut the bottom out of the bucket with a jigsaw to provide access to the electronics (when they are fitted). The hole had quite a rough edge after using the jigsaw, so this was flattened down with a planishing hammer and dolly!

Galvanised steel bucket with bottom cut out.

Galvanised steel bucket with the bottom cut out.

A small hole was also drilled in the side of the bucket for fitting the on/off/volume switch. The electronics are mounted on a wooden panel that fits into the bucket near the bottom, but leaving enough room for the electronics. The photo that follows shows some of the electronics mounted onto the board:

Amp and speaker mounted on base board - the Arduino was removed for this picture.

Amp and speaker mounted on base board – the Arduino was removed for this picture.

The board was glued into place in the bucket, so that it does not fall out:

Base board glued into place

Base board glued into place near the bottom of the bucket

Rear view of bucket showing the base board with the electronics mounted. You can see the on/off/volume switch at the side of the bucket. The sound is produced by an Adafruit WaveShield attached to an Arduino Uno. The sound is fed through a 3.5W mono Kemo amplifier and into a 5W Visaton full range speaker. There is a small amount of buzz which I haven’t managed to remove, but it is not noticeable when the sound is playing. The whole thing is powered by a 1000mAh Turnigy Li-Po RC battery, as they are light and powerful.

Electronics mounted onto base board and glued into the bucket

Bottom view – Electronics mounted onto base board and glued into the bucket

The bucket still needs to be decorated (as per Rachel’s design), the pig fitting and the sensors fitting to the pig. We’re hoping to complete this part by next week ready for the next workshop at MERL.

Below – we are attaching the new nose (containing an off the shelf pressure sensor) and the ears (which each contain a pressure sensor constructed form resistive plastic). The pressure sensor in the nose is situated between the cream coloured foam and the pink foam which forms the end of the nose (which Kate made independently, and managed to get the dimensions spot on!). It was intended as a ‘push’ sensor, so pushing on the end of the nose would trigger the sound, but it also appears to work well when squeezed, which is an added bonus.

Adding the new nose and ears to the pig

Adding the new nose and ears to the pig

The ears were more difficult to construct. We wanted the whole area of the ear to work as a sensor, rather than an isolated area, which would be the case if we used a small off the shelf pressure sensor. So we used conductive (copper taffeta) fabric with resistive plastic (Velostat) sandwiched in between. The resistive plastic becomes more conductive the harder you squeeze it, so it works like a simple variable resistor.

Constructing the ears

Constructing the ears from resistive plastic and conductive fabric

One downside to the construction of the ears was that they have to be kept flat. Bending them would lose the resistivity. We did (obviously) try to create curved ears, but they were very inconsistent in operation and unreliable. Hence we stuck with flat ears and made sure they were attached to the pig flat! The wires were attached (using ordinary wire) to the ears by sewing them with conductive thread to the tabs at the bottom (see image below), and then gluing in place:

Squeeze sensor ears for the pig in a bucket

Squeeze sensor ears for the pig in a bucket

There was also a slight bug in the software when we initially tested it out, but it was easy to solve, and the finished item is below. It’s beautifully colourful!

Rachel's 'Pig-in-a-bucket'

Rachel’s ‘Pig-in-a-bucket’

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Sian’s mooing boot

Development of the mooing boot.

In the image below, Sian is holding the boot that she developed at the workshop sessions that we held at MERL. She covered the boot with faux cow hide and wanted it to moo when touched.

Sian holding the wellington boot covered in faux cow hide that she designed. This is the original boot which was used as the basis for the mooing welly.

Sian holding the wellington boot covered in faux cow hide that she designed. This is the original boot which was used as the basis for the mooing welly.

To produce the mooing sound, we used an Arduino UNO together with a wave shield, a 3.5W mono amp and a small speaker:

Arduino UNO with waveshield and amplifier

Arduino UNO with waveshield and amplifier

To trigger the sounds with the Arduino, two contact microphones, a tilt switch and a pressure sensor were used. The two contact microphones were stuck to cardboard bases (about 10cm square), and the bases were then glued to each side of the boot – these formed the strokable areas:

Contact mics

Contact mics before attaching to cardboard bases.

Initially, we tried to construct a simple squeeze sensor using resistive plastic (Velostat) and copper fabric. However, although it worked very well when constructed as a flat sensor, the curved version that was attached to the boot was very tempremental! Subsequently, we opted for a pressure switch which works very well:

Pressure switch using to trigger a sound when the tow area of the boot is squeezed.

Pressure switch using to trigger a sound when the toe area of the boot is squeezed.

The speaker was attached to a wooden base which fitted inside the opening of the boot and secured from slipping with a thin aluminium band screw into the boot. This was later covered with fur to match the boot. The image below shows the fur being attached with contact adhesive:

Faux cow hide being attached to the speaker base

Faux cow hide being attached to the speaker base.

The Arduino sketch that triggers the sounds was written so that when the sides of the boot were stroked, the toe squeezed or the boot tilted forward, the sound would play. The sound will continue to play as long as the boot is stroked or the toe squeezed and will stop approximately 2 seconds afterwards. Email me if you would like me to send you the Arduino sketch.

Here are some images of the final boot – we will upload some video when it is tested out:

The mooing boot

The mooing boot

Below is a picture of Claudia holding the boot after attaching the faux hide – she did the nice needlework!

Claudia holding the mooing boot

Claudia holding the mooing boot

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littleBits go LARGE

The littleBits go LARGE project now has its own page on this site: littleBits go LARGE

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Design for All

As our project “Making Electronics Accessible to People with Learning Disabilities” satisfied the criteria for Design for All (http://designforall.org/) we can now use the logo in association with this part of the project:

Design for All

Design for All

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littleBits go LARGE …

littleBits go LARGE

littleBits go LARGE

We used littleBits with our group from Reading College to introduce technology and ways of activating sounds, light and smells from the smell box (below). They worked well in many senses, but there were a number of issues with using them:

  1. Each of the littleBits components has a pair of magnets on each face to hold the bits together when assembling circuits. Most of the bits have two faces, but it is difficult to tell which is for input and which is for output. If it is the wrong way round, then the objects will not snap together.
  2. It can be difficult to tell whether the component is the right way up, as the top and bottom are similar in appearance. If they are the wrong way up, then you cannot connect the bits together.
  3. The affordances of the bits are often unclear, so it is not always obvious what to do with them. For example, the microswitch has a small roller attached to a metal arm, and which should be pushed inwards (i.e. towards the body of the bit) to operate. But this was often pulled outwards instead. The microphone trigger also caused some confusion until it was demonstrated. As it looks like a button, it was pressed rather than talking or clapping close to it.
  4. Some additional cues would help people to understand whether the bits were connected correctly. For instance, the inclusion of a small indicator LED on the edge of each bit that illuminates when the two bits are properly connected might be helpful.
  5. Controls on the littleBits objects are very small and difficult to operate if you have limited manual dexterity. Although the two group members in the images above (See Figure 2) managed to work the controls (including using the tiny screwdriver provided to adjust the sensitivity of one of the sensors), it is clear that they would benefit greatly from larger, more robust, controls.
  6. Whilst not a criticism of the design, the bits are small which can be a problem for our co-researchers, many of whom have limited motor control or manual dexterity, and may cope better with objects which are larger.

To address some of these issues, we designed a base with which to attach the littleBits components, increasing the size of the platform which might make the objects easier to handle. The initial prototype was made out of balsa wood to get an idea of the size, and to address issue 1 above we decided on a form which is tessellated, so that you cannot get the bit the wrong way round. Because the original components are clamped to the top of the bases, you cannot get them upside down either, which addresses issue 2:

Prototype made form balsa wood

Prototype made from balsa wood

The image below shows two input devices, two output devices and the power block:

Bigger Bits

Two input, two output and power

Close up of a bigger bit which extends the LED bit:

LED Bigger Bit

LED Bigger Bit

A simple circuit using the Bigger Bits:

A simple circuit

A simple circuit using the bigger bits.

The next image shows a close up of the connectors that were used. One end of the base has three spring connectors (these are just spring pins, with wires soldered onto them), and the other has a connector is made from model engineering brass tube (1.1mm diam):

Spring pin connectors

Spring pin connectors

The image below shows a close up of the static connectors made from brass tubing. The magnets are 4mm x 4mm diameter. On reflection 5mm x 5mm diameter would be better, and hold the blocks together more firmly.

Brass tube static connectors

Brass tube static connectors

A view of the underside of the base shows the (rather crude) connections. These actually worked well (to my surprise!). The only difficulty with connections were the brackets which connected to the littleBits themselves. As the bits have very small and fragile connectors, a few were damaged in the process of making this, and so the brackets are being redesigned to include very light spring connectors (similar to the ones used by littleBits).

onnections to spring pins and static connectors

Connections to spring pins and static connectors

The next stage of development will include the following:

  1. lightweight spring connectors built into the brackets, which should help to provide a better contact to the littleBits components
  2. possibly led indicators on one side of the base which illuminates when the connection is properly made (I’m not entirely sure how much this would help, and needs to be trialled first)
  3. slight redesign of base to use smaller spring pins (i.e. not quite so long) which will press fit into the base, together with off-the-shelf static pins, rather than brass tube
  4. removal of some of the material from the base to make it a little lighter and also save on the cost of 3D printing
  5. 3D printed in different colours to reflect the purpose of the component (i.e. blue for power, green for output, etc)
  6. modify the sound box and smell box (below) to use the new type of connectors

If you have any comments or suggestions, then please contact me.

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Full Size Potato Battery

Here is the full size potato battery. It is made from a plank of oak, with a plate of zinc and a plate of copper screwed to it. The metal plates have dimensions 80mm x 1000mm, and were chosen so that they would fit on a 1m plank. It hasn’t yet been tested, but we might schedule this for the workshop on Thursday … 🙂

Potato Battery

Full size Potato Battery

The next stage is to attach the wires that will connect the potato battery to the microcontroller. We’ll use simple screw terminals, and screw the wires to the plates.

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Smell Box Ver 1 Test

We took the three smell boxes to MERL to test them with the group from Reading College. They had already used littleBits in two prior workshops, so were acquainted with them and had some idea of what they should do with the parts. A demo of how the smell box is used was given first and then they were handed out for testing. In the image below, a smellbox is being triggered with a push button (and an LED inline, too):

DSCN1262

Two (further) deficiencies of the box:

  1. The fan is underpowered, in the sense that it does not push enough air volume;
  2. The fan seems to blow at an angle, and not directly out of the rear port. This means that you have to place your nose somewhere in line with the corner of the box to smell it.

It might be better if the smell emanated from the top of the box, and blown at an angle so that it is properly distributed. Below, a participant in the workshop examining the smell box (it contained a twig of rosemary):

DSCN1263

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Smell Box Version 1

The ‘smell box’ has finally arrived! It is based upon the same container as the prototype (so currently a bit large), and uses the same low power PC blower to move the air around. A 4N35 opto-isolator is used to separate the littleBits circuit from the circuit that powers the fan (which is controlled by a BC547), and the whole thing is powered by a 11.1V LIPO RC battery:

DSCN1178

Similar to the Sound Box (see below) the Smell Box has littleBits circuitry integrated, and can be activated by any of the littleBits triggers:

DSCN1179

The ‘smell’ itself is placed inside a small box embedded in the lid of the Smell Box. There are some ventilation holes drilled in the smell container (the off-white thing in the lid) and also a number of vents scattered around the box itself. It was tested with a piece of goat cheese:

DSCN1184

To contain the smell of the cheese, the lid was pressed onto the smell container (which is almost air tight). However, the circulation was quite poor (despite the numerous ventilation holes), and so was tried again with the lid partially off:

DSCN1186

This was better, and you could get a good sense of the cheese smell wafting from the box. But the design could be improved significantly in a number of ways:

  1. A much more powerful fan is required to get air circulating properly. A PC case blower seems to be a bit too weak for this purpose.
  2. The smell container needs to have some form of mechanism to contain the smell when the device is inactive. This could consist of a simple set of spring loaded flaps which isolate the smell, and which open only when the device is triggered and the fan starts.
  3. More ventilation holes in the main box, so that a good air volume is produced. Currently the air volume from the device is quite low, and so the smell is rather ‘subtle’.
  4. The air vent from which the smell emanates is currently to low down, and would ideally be placed on or near the top of the box.

We will trial this next week (18 Nov 2013) and see what happens with our target group. A report of how well it worked will be posted here soon.

In the meantime, we’ll be developing version 2 of the smell box, and include the improvements. Rather than hack boxes to pieces to make the new version, it would be a good idea to 3D print the next one. We’ll post the design on here when it is ready.

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Extending the Sound Box further

The Sound Box has had another update, and now includes an external speaker socket. this means that it can be plugged into an external amplifier/speaker or some other output device that can handle the analog signal. The image below shows the new jack socket with a device already connected via a jackplug:

Sound Box with new external plug socket

Sound Box with new external plug socket

In the next image a surface transducer (a surface speaker) is plugged into the Sound Box. The transducer itself is attached to a 1.2mm zinc plate with a strip of BlueTack. The transducer makes the zinc plate vibrate to produce sound.

Transducer attached to a zinc plate with bluetack

Transducer attached to a zinc plate with bluetack

The final image is a close-up of the transducer. You can buy these for around £5.00 each (or less) from many outlets on the web.

Transducer

Transducer

The next experiment will be to connect the Sound Box to an external amplifier, and from this to a much more powerful speaker. The speaker will be attached to a metal plate and we will look at how the sound waves propagate on the surface of the plate to produce patterns (visible using fine sand or powder).

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Potato Battery

For one of the forthcoming workshop at MERL, we might explore how potatoes can produce energy using a setup similar to this, and demonstrate that you can do more with a potato than boil it, mash it or make chips (french fries, if you are not from UK). The images below show the simple battery setup using a zinc plate and a copper plate with a small gap between them.

Zinc and copper plates

Zinc and copper plates

A potato (or two in this case for a larger current) is placed across the plates:

Potatoes placed across the two plates

Potatoes placed across the two plates

The current measured across the plates was about 160uA:

Measuring the current generated by the potato battery

Measuring the current generated by the potato battery

The next stage of development will be to drive a set of LEDs to indicate the current generated.

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